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Backyard Theater - Outdoor Movies

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Author Topic: Update on new screen and frame  (Read 3919 times)
16bob9
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« on: September 04, 2007, 07:56:00 pm »

Here is an update on my current setup.
Old Screen - 16' x 8' BOC using 2 pieces sewn together lengthwise. Grommets attached to the perimeter. Bungie balls used to attach to frame.
Old Frame - 1 1/4" PVC frame. Glued to allow disassembly into 4' sections.
Frame was attached to post and rail fence 3 feet off of the ground.

This setup worked very well until grommets started to pull from nonre-enforced BOC. Continued to function until a severe wind broke the PVC fittings into pieces at several glued and non-glued segments.

New Screen - 16' x 9', single piece of BOC. 2" polyester seatbelt webbing was sewn to perimeter by local dry cleaners for $80. I used a soldering gun to burn holes into the webbing to use for grommets. This technique worked very well. It was very quick to burn the hole which was instantly sealed/melted to prevent unraveling of webbing. I have no doubt that the grommets will not pull out or tear away from the BOC.

New Frame - 1" EMT and canopy fittings from creative shelters. I used (2) 10' and (2) 4 1/2' sections for the two vertical pieces and (2) 10' and (2) 7' sections for the two horizontal pieces. The vertical 10' sections slide through the "T" fittings to allow me to get the correct screen size and height off of the ground. I decided to make the screen section of the frame 17' x 10' to allow me to use the bungie balls for 6" on each side.

Since the vertical sections are are 14 1/2" tall, I am able to attach them to the split rail fence  with nylon webbing straps and still be above the fence line. This will alow me to view the screen from either side of the fence. When the yard is too wet in the spring, I should be able to still setup the equipment inside the fence.

Everything went very smoothly and the screen looked great! The weak link is still how to breakdown quickly so that I don't have the screen up during inclement weather. I was thinking of using carabiner clips or something simliar at the top section of the frame that wil allow me to slide the screen across and gather it one side like drapes. This would prevent the chance of wind damage significantly. Unfortunately the upper bungie balls on the vertical sections would still be out of reach. The other idea is to have some type of pivot point at the bottom of the (2) vertical sections so that I could lower the frame easily using the guy ropes that are poolside.  mmmm

I was very proud of design and then I started reading the retractable screen design thread. I am humbled. Perhaps next year... Thanks for everyone's help.


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Danoplex II
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« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2007, 08:34:44 pm »

That my friend is a Damn fine looking screen!  Reminds me of mine.....except mine is canvas.

Dano
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tlogan6797
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« Reply #2 on: September 05, 2007, 09:07:05 am »

Looks nice. Great job!

Tom
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Star View Cinema
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« Reply #3 on: September 05, 2007, 10:50:41 am »

Awesome design and elegant use of available hardware. I am now torn as to which route to go for my portable screen/frame design. I am really liking Dano's use of 1.5" aluminum tubing and the spring connectors and using the canopy connectors for the corners. Unfortunately the canopy connectors are available in 1 5/8" and not 1.5", maybe they will work anyway and I can join shorter sections with the straight 'vacuum cleaner tube' spring connectors. As far as screen material, I am thinking of heavyweight trapeze (lighter than BOC, stretches flat) screen with grommets and ball bungees to attach the screen. Does anyone see anything wrong here for a lightweight/sturdy portable screen?
Dano, please let me know where you get the spring button connectors.
Jen
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« Reply #4 on: September 05, 2007, 02:04:38 pm »

Jen,

Sorry for the delay.  I have been bussier than a one armed paper hanger.

Try this: http://valco.thomasnet.com/item/-d-style-snap-buttons/-d-style-snap-buttons-standard/d-283-32-?&seo=110&plpver=10

Valley Tool & Die, Inc.
10020 York Theta Drive
North Royalton, OH 44133
Phone: 440-237-0160
Fax: 440-237-0089

Valco PN  D-283 or D-183  183 has a longer pin than the 283.  I am pretty sure I used the 283 version though.

Have you found the tubing?  It has been on ebay here lately. 

I called Valco and asked them to sell the spring clips to me and their minimum order was 1000.  I spoke to Linda and she asked me to write a letter requesting a sample of 12 pieces and fax it to her.  I did......they shipped me 12 of them for free.

I hope this helps you,

Dano
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16bob9
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« Reply #5 on: September 09, 2007, 06:26:46 am »


Awesome design and elegant use of available hardware. I am now torn as to which route to go for my portable screen/frame design. I am really liking Dano's use of 1.5" aluminum tubing and the spring connectors and using the canopy connectors for the corners. Unfortunately the canopy connectors are available in 1 5/8" and not 1.5", maybe they will work anyway and I can join shorter sections with the straight 'vacuum cleaner tube' spring connectors. As far as screen material, I am thinking of heavyweight trapeze (lighter than BOC, stretches flat) screen with grommets and ball bungees to attach the screen. Does anyone see anything wrong here for a lightweight/sturdy portable screen?
Dano, please let me know where you get the spring button connectors.
Jen

I am not familiar with the cost of aluminum tubing. The EMT is very reasonable at about $6/ 10'.  You should be able to get the exact ID of the connectors from www.creativeshelters.com to see if the connectors would fit. If the 1.5" fits over the fittings, you could use it by drilling a hole.
When my PVC frame broke after a storm I used my telescoping, pool pole to hold the screen on the top. It worked well. I wonder if anyone has used those telescoping fittings to reduce the collapsed size even further than a traditional pool pole.

The BOC doesn't weigh that much and there aren't any noticable wrinkles when it is properly tensioned. Best of luck.
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